During the chilly February days of 1999, it occured to us that a trip to the tropical beaches and jungles of Costa Rica might be a good idea. Attempting to catch several of the touristy high points, it appeared too cumbersome to obtain all those reservations on our own; so, contrary to our usual mode of travel, we signed up for a package tour from a local travel operator with the soothing name Travelers Haven.

They also promised pickup from and to the San José airport, which sounded like a useful feature. On the downside, they wouldn't accept Mastercard, requiring us to obtain a new Visa card. As it turned out, this shouldn't be the only dire aspect of the Costa Rica trip. On an early-morning stroll through the garden of Hotel Bougainvillea in San José, Margrit makes friends with the natives.